An Illustrated Guide to Glacier Travel and Crevasse Rescue: How to Climb Series

Glaciers are beautiful and awe-inspiring, but they can also be dangerous. If you're planning on traveling on a glacier, it's important to be aware of the risks and how to stay safe. This illustrated guide will provide you with everything you need to know about glacier travel and crevasse rescue, including how to choose the right gear, how to assess the risks, and how to perform a crevasse rescue.

Choosing the Right Gear

The first step to safe glacier travel is choosing the right gear. Here are the essential items you'll need:

Glacier Mountaineering: An Illustrated Guide to Glacier Travel and Crevasse Rescue (How To Climb Series)

by Andy Tyson

4.8 out of 5

Language	:	English
File size	:	19951 KB
Text-to-Speech	:	Enabled
Screen Reader	:	Supported
Enhanced typesetting	:	Enabled
Word Wise	:	Enabled
Print length	:	145 pages
Lending	:	Enabled

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• Ice axe: An ice axe is used for climbing and self-arresting on glaciers. Choose an axe that is the right size and weight for you.
• Crampons: Crampons are metal spikes that attach to your boots and provide traction on ice. Choose crampons that are compatible with your boots and that are appropriate for the conditions you'll be encountering.
• Harness: A harness is used to connect you to a rope or anchor. Choose a harness that is comfortable and fits you well.
• Rope: A rope is used for ascending and descending glaciers, and for crevasse rescue. Choose a rope that is the right length and diameter for your needs.
• Helmet: A helmet protects your head from falling ice and rock. Choose a helmet that fits you well and that is certified by the UIAA.

Assessing the Risks

Before you set out on a glacier, it's important to assess the risks. Here are some things to consider:

• Crevasses: Crevasses are cracks in the glacier's surface. They can be hidden by snow, so it's important to be aware of their presence. Crevasses can be dangerous, so it's important to know how to avoid them and how to rescue someone who has fallen into a crevasse.
• Icefall: Icefall is a mass of ice that is breaking away from a glacier. Icefall can be very dangerous, so it's important to avoid areas where it is present.
• Seracs: Seracs are blocks of ice that have broken away from a glacier. Seracs can be very unstable, so it's important to avoid areas where they are present.
• Weather: The weather on glaciers can change quickly, so it's important to be prepared for all conditions. Hypothermia and frostbite are serious risks on glaciers, so it's important to dress appropriately and to have a plan in case the weather turns bad.

Performing a Crevasse Rescue

If someone falls into a crevasse, it's important to know how to perform a crevasse rescue. Here are the steps:

• Assess the situation: First, assess the situation and make sure that it is safe to attempt a rescue. If the crevasse is wide or deep, or if there is icefall or seracs nearby, it may be necessary to call for professional help.
• Anchor yourself: Before you approach the crevasse, anchor yourself to a secure spot using your ice axe or a snow anchor. This will help to prevent you from being pulled into the crevasse.
• Approach the crevasse: Approach the crevasse carefully, staying close to the edge. Use your ice axe to probe the snow for hidden crevasses.
• Lower the victim: Once you have reached the edge of the crevasse, lower the victim to you using a rope. Be careful not to drop the victim, as this could cause further injury.
• Pull the victim out: Once the victim is close to the edge of the crevasse, pull them out using a rope or a pulley system. Be careful not to pull the victim too quickly, as this could cause further injury.
• Assist the victim: Once the victim is out of the crevasse, assist them to a safe place and provide them with first aid if necessary.

Glacier travel can be a rewarding experience, but it's important to be aware of the risks and how to stay safe. By following the tips in this guide, you can help to minimize the risks of glacier travel and crevasse rescue.

Glacier Mountaineering: An Illustrated Guide to Glacier Travel and Crevasse Rescue (How To Climb Series)

by Andy Tyson

4.8 out of 5

Language	:	English
File size	:	19951 KB
Text-to-Speech	:	Enabled
Screen Reader	:	Supported
Enhanced typesetting	:	Enabled
Word Wise	:	Enabled
Print length	:	145 pages
Lending	:	Enabled

FREE